When I first stepped foot on Irish soil, my plan was to be here for a few weeks. Fresh out of college, I wanted to have an adventure and immerse myself in Ireland’s iconic, wild landscapes. Sixteen years later, I’m still here and now call it home.
Right from the start, Ireland captured a little part of me and wouldn’t let go. I immediately felt at ease — everyone I met, from chatty locals in the pub to the generous stranger who gave me a lift to the ferry, treated me like an old friend. The landscapes were every bit as breathtaking as I had hoped, but it was also the ancient history and surprising food scene that called me to stay.
I’ve traveled all over the world for my work, but this is where I feel at home. Anyone who travels to Ireland can feel a similar sense of belonging, even for a brief visit. Fair warning, though — you may never want to leave.
The Wilds of the West
The first place I called home was Clare Island, a blustery isle off the west coast with a population of around 160. I spent my days biking up steep hills, the roadside thick with purple heather and bright yellow gorse, before speeding down to deserted white sand beaches for a swim in clear waters.
There’s always something new to discover in this corner of Ireland, from hidden bays and wild mountains to the dramatic blowholes along the cliffs of Erris Head. In North Mayo, you can lay upon the thick, wildflower-strewn grasses of Downpatrick Head and watch the waves as they crash and swirl around the Dún Briste sea stack. You don’t walk, but rather bounce, upon springy domes of earth created by bogland and plant roots.
Take a trip along the Wild Atlantic Way and you’ll find endless untamed beauty to inspire your own adventures. Dreamy islands, from Inisheer to Inishkea, are so easy to explore. Hop on a ferry or take a ten minute flight to the Aran Islands for a bird’s eye view that will blow your mind.
Culinary Cities
After many years in the countryside, I packed my bags and moved to Dublin. I live in the Liberties, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. Happily, it’s also one of the best places to eat, with Argentinian bakeries, Michelin-starred restaurants, and food trucks.
As someone who can’t eat one meal without thinking about the next, I think the food scene in Ireland is incredible. You can’t beat the fat, juicy lobsters from Sligo, dripping in bright yellow salty butter, or a thick Irish steak, smothered in smoked salt and wild garlic. Don’t even get me started on the cheese.
It’s why St George’s Market in Belfast is one of my favorite spots. Under one redbrick roof, you’ll find locally produced goat bacon, hand-churned seaweed butter, and other specialties like “fifteens” (a fridge cake made from cookies, marshmallow, and cherries). Belfast is packed with street art, coffee shops, and bars where there’s always a bit of craic (a.k.a. “fun”) to be found. Just visit the Cathedral Quarter and follow the sounds of live music, which trickles out of pubs day and night.
Ancient Roots
Just around the corner from my apartment in Dublin is a remnant of the old City Wall, dating back to the 12th century. When I open my windows on Sunday mornings, I can hear the bells of the almost 1,000-year-old Christ Church Cathedral, as Dubliners pass by on their way to brunch.
Here, history isn’t kept behind red velvet ropes and glass partitions. In Ireland’s Ancient East, you can walk through a forest and stumble upon the crumbling ruins of a medieval castle, or find a megalithic passage tomb at the side of a country road. It’s impossible not to feel a connection to the past as you trail your hand over bricks that are centuries old — whether at the grandiose Lismore Castle, with its immaculate gardens and farmer’s market, or at the 6th century monastic settlement at Glendalough. Guided walking tours and age-old stories let visitors, regardless of their heritage or connection to Ireland, experience that sense of wonder.
Follow the Northern Shore
Take a road trip along the northern coast and you’ll find remarkable sites like The Gobbins, a cliff path that clings to the rock face above the churning Irish Sea, or the gothic remains of the dramatic Dunluce Castle. Along the way, you’ll meet plenty of characters who won’t let you pass without having a “wee chat.” In country pubs warmed by smoldering turf fires, you’ll sit down next to a stranger and within minutes be writing down a list of their recommendations, from the best place for a wild swim to directions to a secret hiking trail.
At the end of the day, it’s the people who have kept me in Ireland. I may have been enchanted by the postcard-perfect villages and creative-cool cities, but it’s the connections that have made it my home. This is a place where you always feel welcome, whether it’s your first visit or your fortieth — in Ireland, you belong.
Ready to fill your heart with Ireland?
Visit Ireland.com to start planning your visit.